Driving in India

I've delayed posting about driving in India. Mainly because it's just such chaos I didn't really know if i could describe it. To summarize:
No rules
No laws
No lanes
Very few Traffic lights (which means more chaos at intersections)
Everyone is out for themselves
Rush hour traffic most of the day/night
It's an obstacle course filled with buses, cars, SUV's, motorcycles, scooters, ox pulled carts, rickshaws, bicycles, pedestrians, people crossing in front of you, people pushing fruit carts, cows, dogs, sheep, goats, tractors, three wheel pick-ups (very slow), potholes, massive speed bumps and i'm sure i'm forgetting some. Plus re-learning how to drive a standard (all cars here) in the midst of it all!
There's no talking on the cell phone or looking down to change the radio station--you'll surely hit something:) We don't feel like we are in danger really because the traffic moves so slow, if you hit something or something hits you the impact won't be too great. But it's more frustrating than anything. To get out of our apt. complex onto the main road we can't cross over the median to take a right turn toward the city. So we have to go left and sit in 10-20 minutes of traffic just to make a u-turn to go in the right direction:) Things like that. But you know what? it is so nice just to have a vehicle and we are so thankful that we can drive! I think most foreigners feel incapable (which is why they hire drivers) so it is nice to be able to manage it!

FINALLY!!

We are so thankful to have this vehicle! After 3 months (4 for Brian) of rickshaws and buses we really appreciate the room and a/c (which means not having to breath stinky exhaust:)! It is a 2001 Mahindra Bolero. (Note the racing stripes that are non-optional on all SUV's--Brian says it makes the car go faster:) People here either drive tiny compact cars or large SUV safari types like this one. The large family needed to opt for this kind:)

We learned quickly that buying a vehicle in India is not like the states. You can't go to your local CarMax, pick out a car and drive off. Finding a reputable dealer is a challenge and although we worked with an honest salesman for 2 months (the first month was wasted with a dishonest dealer:), most of the cars he told us would be available fell through (the dealer works with individual owners who decided not to sell them). We actually looked at this same vehicle about 2 months ago but held out to see if we could get a more recent model (and the man selling it was holding out to get the price he wanted). Nothing materialized. We assumed this is the one the Lord wanted us to have.

Like most cars here there are are no seatbelts in the rear:) We are going to have those installed so we can make use of those carseats we value so much in the u.s.:)

Kai Balboa

This is a night video--so it's a little hard to see

Kai Turns 8 Months

Kai sat up on the floor by himself for more than the usual few seconds:), he's enjoying looking at books and was introduced to his Johnny Jump Up on friday. Just a side note: it's hard to "catch" good pictures of Corban these days--his eyes are sensitive to the flash so nearly every pic has the "closed eyes" pose:)

Mysore Trip

This past weekend we visited a city called Mysore about 3 hours (if you don't get lost:) away from Bangalore. There is a great zoo, beautiful palace and Brindavan Gardens outside the city which is irrigated by the lake/dam next to it. The landscape at the gardens was stunning and worth getting lost for an hour before stumbling upon it:) (The whole road sign directions thing hasn't caught on here yet:) If you run your mouse over the slideshow you can control the viewing options.

Mysore Palace lighted

Mysore Palace

Internet Anxiety

I experienced our first internet outage of 4 days (really 3 1/2) this week. Even though I don't really "need"the internet, it felt like I lost my right arm:) I wanted to be able to communicate. We usually have interuptions each day but this was a long one! The problem was finally solved today and I am thanking the Lord for Email and the Web!! What did people do 20 years ago or more when there was no such thing!! I'm sure they wrote letters by snail mail but even that is so unreliable. We have been expecting packages and a card for over 3 weeks now. I've heard that they can get held up at Indian Customs--pocketed or lost. I'm hopeful they will arrive someday:)

I'm just so thankful that we live here in 2007 when we can email--high speed-- anytime of day! And I realize that I'm very far off from Paul's biblical advice to be content in every situation and to not be anxious. Maybe that was the lesson I was supposed to learn from this!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Well here in Bangalore it's just another day--the Pilgrims didn't land in India unfortunately:) I'm thankful that it does feel like just another day and I'm not sitting here depressed that I'm missing green bean casserole and pecan pie:) Actually some of Brian's coworkers (all of the American ones) are getting together Saturday night to celebrate Thanksgiving since they aren't off of work today.
Turkeys are rare here and have to be special ordered for a pricey sum. We saw a sign at a restaurant to order imported Butterball turkeys...for a 5 lb turkey it would have cost $200!! You can get them cheaper--between $20-$50-- which our friends are doing. We will all be improvising the side dishes since none of us own ovens:) They plan on frying the turkey outside on their portable gas stove:)
The only thing you can't improvise here is cranberry sauce--none to be found.
As I contemplate Thanksgiving here on the other side of the world, on just "another day" in India, I realize it's quite amazing that so much fuss is made over turkey and stuffing:D But I know it goes deeper than that...being thankful for all our many blessings, family, friends, food, and football!:)
Happy Turkey Day!

Birthday Party

Last week we were invited to go to our housekeeper's daughter's (Ramier) 18th birthday party. We were honored to be invited and had fun celebrating with her. It was interesting to see some of their traditions. One is somewhat like our wedding cake in the States...the birthday girl cut a piece of cake and each person at the party took turns standing next to her and taking a bite of the cake while she fed it to them. She had her picture taken each time as well. She got gifts and blew out her candles.

In the pictures you can see that she and her family don't smile when posing for the camera. I think it is a cultural thing. Ramier has a beautiful smile but she didn't show it for any of her pics.

In the picture with all of us you'll notice behind Ramier that there is a poster of an elephant looking creature. This is Ganesh, a popular hindu god here. They had a whole shrine of "household gods" set up. That is what they call them too. It brought to life the Old Testament talk of people having "house hold gods". I had never seen that until coming here. Also if you can see the poster behind Ramier and her aunt (lady in red saree) it has 2 big houses, a new shiny red car and a manicured lawn. The quote at the top said "Arise, awake, do not rest until the goal is reached". Hindus believe that when you die if you've done enough good works you come back in your next life with more material possesions. You keep coming back into different lives until you've reached your richest status then die and go to heaven. This poster motivates them to do good works and strive for material possesions. Very sad.

Corban Dancing

Haddon Dancing

Diwali

Diwali (pronounced Da-Volley) is the "Festival of Lights". This was the biggest celebration since we've been here (in two months there has been atleast 5 festivals/celebrations!). People spend lots of money on commercial grade fireworks. This means anyone can pop the firecrackers that you would see at a 4th of July show--the huge kind--right in their back yard (or their apt. complex) For 5 nights fireworks can be heard and seen around the city. Near us they went off until about midnight. On Thursday morning they started at 6am!! We thought for sure it was kids, but when Brian went outside to take a look it was families, lots of them, popping fireworks:) We learned that in South India it is traditional to pop fireworks in the morning and all day. We bought the boys some Sparklers and took them to the swimming pool Friday night to watch our neighbors pop really BIG fireworks.

What about Brian?

Hi everyone! This is Brian. I thought I would take a blog and write about all the things that I have been up with regards to work.

To say things are busy is almost laughable. Our company is growing so fast right now that every manager is following their daily activities, planning for future growth, and managing a number of new initiatives designed to help manage the growth.

For those that are unaware, our company's website can be found at http://www.ujjivan.com/ Since I have just finished my first three months with the company, you probably won't find me on the website yet as I just finished my probabtionary period.

My official job title is Operations Manager. Ujjivan has three major areas of Operation: Bangalore, Delhi, and Kolkata, where Bangalore is where our headquarters are located. As of today, and soon to change, we have 17 Branches in the Bangalore region, 7 in Kolkata, and 4 in Delhi. We just recently eclipsed 40,000 customers. Such a number after only 2 years in existence is unheard of in the microfinance world. As all of our branches are working with poor women in their areas and offering a number of financial services, my department processes and makes all of those actions possible, currently for all of regions. All paperwork for the customers, loan applications, insurance forms, transactions occurring in the branches, and loan disbursements are processed in my department. We are currently receiving around 200 new customers per day and over 300 loan applications per day.

In our department, I report to the Head of Operations for the company. The Accounts department, data entry and loan booking department, customer service, and help desk report to me. I have also recently hired an engineer to handle our IT-related projects. Our department also has a Cash Manager, MIS Specialist, Credit Manager, and Risk Manager, each with their own sub-departments who report to the Head of Operations like me.

The main challenges for day to day activities are in handling the large volumes, controlling errors, and managing all the change going on in the branches. My group has 25 people but the turnover for our data entry group is very high as many people move in from semi-urban villages, get training from us in data entry and English, and then move on for higher paying jobs from IT firms. Many of the changes I have had to make since Istarting have been in putting tracking mechanisms in place to monitor the daily capacity and branch priorities associated with them, instituting a batch process for our loan applications to make the process more efficienct, teach our supervisors better planning and management techniques, and managing all the people problems that take place every day. I have had to make my first termination a few weeks ago, which was very unfortunate because it was a young girl who is dealing with mental problems and was not willing to receive help.

Other projects I have been working on or leading include developing a Change Management procedure for the company, process mapping all company processes and perform risk assessments on every process, develop process management training for all of our branch managers, prepare our main software and network capabilities for transitioning the company to a regional operations set up so that Delhi and Kolkata can begin to process all of their branches' activities, modify our operations to handle a new individual-lending product (where we are currently completely group lending right now and this new product woud also onclude men), institute our customer service and help desk which just started this week, and begin a pilot project in January that would give our field staff hand-helds to perform all transactions.

I also get to get out to the branches and meet our customers. Real change is being made but not every customer wants to get out of poverty or even make life better for her and her family. Some situations can be disappointing but the majority are very encouraging. I am confident that what we are doing is the financial solution for the poor. More wholistic approaches are being explored, though still lacking in spiritual substance.

A great part about all of it is that I don't feel overwhelmed and have been so excited about everything that I am doing. Things are never perfect. People are still the same sin-bearing vessels that they are everywhere else. Some days are better than others, but the work atmosphere here is very good.

After 3-1/2 months, I am completely confident that the reason for coming here is being fulfilled. I am learning every in and out of microfinance and even banking itself. The experience I have been getting would never have been possible in the US, even with firms doing the same thing.

There are only a few born-again believers here at work. Going deeper with people here is difficult being an American. The real inroads I have made have been with 19-25 year olds who work in my group, but the boss-employee issues that go along with that make it more challenging.

There are an infinite possibilities with future ministries being involved in microfinance. The future is still unclear but the experience I am getting here is invaluable.

There are a few men at church who I have been able to get to know better. One of the pastors and our Sunday Bible study leader have already begun to be real partners and mentors for me in faith and sanctification.

There has also been a recent big event ( more of a step in the process though) with four wheels that I will let Colette disclose the details to....

Hopefully this has provided a little more information on my job and what I do every day.

Thanks,

Brian

Not Your Local Walgreens

Most everyone these days in America has access to a Walgreens or CVS just around the corner. In India there are pharmacies on every street but you may not want to get your medicine there. This is what most of them look like...

I'm not saying I wouldn't get my medicine there b/c of the way it looks; rather, because it's open to the heat and elements and expiration dates are questionable which makes you think twice:) So as I was calling around with my American accent to find out if any pharmacy carried prenatal vitamins (I'm not pregnant, i'm just still taking them:), I found one that did. It happens to be the most famous and reputable pharmacy in Bangalore...The Cash Pharmacy, started by an English man by the name of Cash in 1908. I wish I had a current picture of the outside. First I'll show you how it used to look...really beautiful...the top picture is the first building which looks more like a house. Then for some reason they cut the top floor off and it turned into the next picture. Then after a long battle b/w the pharmacy and the land owner it was torn down.

Now it looks like a hole in the wall! We were in disbelief when we saw it--this couldn't be it--a famous pharmacy? Made of concrete cylinder blocks, no windows, one door, and a hand painted sign. Inside it's about the size of a pharmacy at Walmart but triple the inventory, and they still have the same medicine cabinets from 1908:) (atleast that's what it looked like). But it is enclosed and air conditioned, which keeps the meds good. I couldn't get a great shot of the inside b/c i didn't want to look obvious, but you can see the medicine stored in the cabinets below. It took me a 2 hour round trip by rickshaw to get there (traffic is really bad!) The first time I went with Brian and it was closed:) When I arrived the second time they didn't have prenatal vitamins but did have a multivitamin. I'll be stocking up when we visit the States next month:)

So I'm learning here that "reliable, trustworthy and good quality" do not equal "clean, new or convenient" like they do in America. And I thank God for the Cash Pharmacy that even though it's not around the corner or "Walgreen's clean", has some of the best pharmacists/chemists in Bangalore, has a/c to keep medicine good, and has some vitamins. And when I'm in TX next month I will thank the Lord for wonderful Walgreens:D

Laundry Pile

Corban had fun loading all the clean clothes onto Kai--Kai thought it was great:)...

PEEK A BOO!

Forgot Salwars

I wanted to show those who are interested another type of popular apparel for woman. I like these the best... they are called Salwars and the scarf is a Dupatta (a sign of modesty). My friend Asha in TX gave me a Salwar suit before moving and I hope to get more while here. There are tons of BEAUTIFUL fabrics here, so colorful with lots of embellishments. And there are just as many tailors that will design and make clothes for a great price. You can also find ready-to-wear as well as lots of western clothing stores. The woman here look very feminine with the sarees and salwars.

Men and Women in India

Just a few little observations about men and women...

* It is accepted here that men can hold hands, put their arms around each other, walk down the street holding hands, etc. It took me off guard at first, not expecting this cultural difference, but it is innocent and a sign of friendship.

* It is also accepted that men can urinate right on the side of the road! I hate to sound crude but it's true. Thankfully they turn their backs to the street but they do not bother to hide behind a tree or bush:) So oncoming traffic knows exactly what they are doing. One time our rickshaw driver pulled over to relieve himself:) We even saw a commercial advertising motorcycles and the actor pulled over on the side of the road to go to the bathroom--it's that accepted!!

* Women, as far as I know, don't wear bathing suits, so there won't be any women swimming or laying out at the apt. complex pool. They also don't wear shorts. It's acceptable for women to wear pants and jeans but the majority of the population wear sarees like these, even to clean houses.

* Many women go to live with their mother after giving birth...for about 6 months. I'm not sure if this is just for the firstborn child or even when you have 4 or 5, but it's a common practice to live with your mom so she can help you. Poor husband...he's left alone to fend for himself:)

* You always want what you don't have...while many American woman are going for that tropical tan, via the tanning bed or spray tans, woman here are hoping to become lighter. L'Oreal sells a product to whiten your face and i'm sure many other brands do as well.

Fast Food vs Health Food

Here in Bangalore you can really find neither of these very readily... fast food nor health food. Unlike the U.S. there are not fast food chains on every corner, which is probably a good thing, except when you are looking for a quick meal:) So far we've seen only 2 McDonald's both at malls, 2 KFC's & 2 Subways also at the mall/shopping area. This is a city of 6 million people--pretty amazing that there's not more. The Fast Food craze has thankfully not hit India. Also in the way of fast food via the freezer section there is little selection. I'm amazed now when i think about 4 long rows of freezer aisles at U.S. grocers. Here there are only 2 freezer doors of food. My kids are no longer eating frozen waffles for breakfast and microwaved chicken nuggets for lunch everyday...another good thing:D And one more thing about fast food...there are no baby food jars at grocery stores. I knew I would be making my own baby food when i got here to save money but i didn't realize there wouldn't be an option:) we did go to one toy store that carried jar food, before Kai was eating solids, but i didn't price it.

On the other hand, the health food/diet craze hasn't found its way to India either.There's not an abundance of healthy choices. No Baked Lays or "Lowfat" versions of food. Of course you can find foods that are not fattening but it seems America has been populated with fatfree, lowcarb, lowcal options on every aisle. Most things here are cooked with oil--fried, gravy with an oil base, not many grilled options. Lots and lots of yummy, buttery bread with each meal:) Thankfully there are many fruits and vegetables at the grocery store. Another luxery I had become spoiled with in the U.S. was Nutrition Labels on food packages. It is not government mandated here and when there is a label on the package it is for a serving of 100 grams (not 1 cup or 5 cookies for example), which is usually way bigger than a person can eat in one serving:) Many times the whole content of the package is less than 100 grams:) And sugar content is never listed on a package. We can buy "whole wheat" bread but it's white so i'm not sure about that:)

I hope i don't sound like i'm complaining i just enjoy sharing about differences. My kids are eating much healthier now...scrambled eggs for breakfast, grilled cheese for lunch. And we do still order Domino's Pizza every Sunday night to get our pizza fill! Yes they have Domino's!!

Airplane Store

Today we took our Saturday outing to the airplane store. We've passed it several times and noticed the real airplane in the window. The boys had a blast...Haddon said "Look at this Momma" for every piece of merchandise he passed:D It's a store of hobby airplanes, toy airplanes and apparel. Ofcourse we did have to purchase souvenirs:) Corban got a styrofoam plane that flies across the room (when thrown:) and Haddon got a die cast "toddler size" bomber. They were happy. Kai was just along for the ride:)

What's that Noise?

The past few mornings I've been awakened quite early, atleast by my standards (Brian's already out of bed:), by a loud noise outside our bedroom window. I thought it was the neighbors above us on their balcony--maybe having sunrise coffee or something:) This morning I decided to get up and open the curtains. I discovered a pile of milk bags down on the grass below. I guess the noise is the milk truck delivering the milk. I'm assuming the "milkmen" take it from here and deliver door to door. Gotta have milk in the morning right?:)
Just a side note: you can also have groceries, furniture, movie tickets, takeout food and pretty much anything you can think of delivered to your door for free here. Very nice.

Kai in Reverse

This is Kai walking backwards in his walker--he only goes in reverse right now:)

Loud and Messy

The next four posts are video clips i took the other night of the boys singing and dancing LOUDly . The house is MESSY but please just ignore the background:)

Haddon--Happy Birthday Tia

Haddon was singing Happy Birthday to his aunt Tia...

Corban singing and dancing

The Boys Dancing with Daddy